A bespoke jacket is a real asset: it can structure an outfit and finalize it with distinction. Atelier Clotilde Ranno realizes many types of jacket for all your special occasions. But a wrong jacket induces a bad look. Clotilde Ranno will give you some advices to avoid any mistakes.
How to choose the right jacket
When you pick a jacket, you must focus on its size: many men choose theirs way too big or way to small. To do it properly, you need to check some points.
First, the shoulders: it is the most determinant aspect of a jacket because it is the only one that can’t be retouched. The seam must stop at the end of the shoulder of your bespoke jacket: it shouldn’t be too close or too far. A jacket also should be adjusted: it must follow the lines of your body. When the first button of your bespoke jacket is attached, some slight folds must appear on both sides of the button. However, there should not be any other folds on the rest of the jacket! A bespoke jacket must maintain you without tighten you.
Finally, the length of your bespoke jacket and the length of your pants should be approximately equal.
The manufacture of your bespoke jacket
There are three types of manufacture.
The excellent type is the traditional one. Qualified craftsmen sew a tailor lining from the shoulders to the armhole and book-sew it on the lapel. Another method consists on finishing with heat fusion the inside of the jacket: this takes less time and is cheaper. However, this kind of manufacture is less qualitative because the pattern and the fabric are assembled thanks to a bonding.
Atelier Clotilde Ranno is making your bespoke jacket semi-traditionally. The pattern is integrated the same way as in the traditional method but a bonding is made for a front part of the jacket. This way, we can offer you a qualitative jacket at an interesting price.
We also make traditional jackets but at a higher cost.
Just like our bespoke suit, our bespoke jackets are made from sumptuous Loro Piana or Holland and Sherry fabrics. Our clients can choose light or thick fabrics depending on the use of the jacket. If you compose a jacket individually, it can be interesting to choose a colourful design. Of course, we also propose more classical models, easier to wear.
Types of jackets
The cut
There are 3 types of jacket: the classic, the Neapolitan and the double-breasted jacket.
The classic jacket has an “English” shoulder which means it has an epaulet. It is a structured and traditional jacket. The epaulet of a Neapolitan jacket barely exists. This “con rollino” style is more casual to facilitate movements. There is also the “spalla camicia” shoulder or the “shirt” shoulder: a smooth and natural shoulder even more casual. The last jacket or the double-breasted jacket is formal and original. It is the jacket of the 30s British. There are different types of double breasted jacket depending on the number of buttons but there are always a symmetric buttoning and some decorative buttons.
Always remember to choose a jacket based on your body shape. Choose a Neapolitan jacket if you have large shoulders. Either way, a classic jacket will develop your stature.
From left to right : classic should, Neapolitan shoulder, shirt shoulder.
The lapel
There are three types of lapel: the notched lapel, the peaked lapel and the shawl lapel. The most common but the less formal is the notched one. It is often used for business suit. The peaked lapel is more distinguished: this is, by the way, the only one used for double breasted jackets. Finally, we have the shawl lapel. This one is reserved to ceremonies or elegant parties. It is frequent to find it on a smoking.
Concerning the width of the lapel, it depends once again on your silhouette.
The pockets
The pockets of a jacket can differ depending on its style. A welt pocket, for example, gives a formal look to the jacket. A more casual jacket will have, on the other side, a flap pocket. The more traditional pocket is however the patch pocket. Before, it was square but now it is more modern, more rounded. This kind of pocket is more relaxed.
Some jackets also have a “ticket pocket”: a small pocket on the right side of the jacket, originally used to put the metro ticket. When a jacket has it, it is more sportswear.
From left to right: flap pocket, welt pocket, patched pocket, ticket pocket.
From left to right: peaked lapel, notched label, shawl lapel.
Atelier Clotilde Ranno considers your morphology and proposes bespoke jackets. Thus, it will be the combination of the cut, the lapel and the pockets of your choice. A jacket is an important piece in an outfit so it is necessary to choose it well. You will find at the Atelier some jacket for a suit, some blazers or some safari jackets. All of them with perfectly match with your casual bespoke pants. You can also compose a bespoke coat. To completely please you, we propose a large range of fabrics and advices.
From 669 euros.